Elegance is a matter of jacket (for men). In the world of men’s clothing, the jacket is a decidedly delicate topic which can easily damage the image if it is not chosen correctly. There are many things to consider when choosing and you better know them first to avoid unnecessary waste of time and money.
Perhaps not everyone knows that the jacket is among the oldest garments. Of course we’re not talking about the jacket as it is known today, but its “ancestor”; This seems to have been used interchangeably by both men and women. It appears to have been found of “remnants” of jackets in women’s sarcophagi dating back to the bronze age.
Making a leap in time, the direct ancestors of today’s men’s clothing are definitely born in France in the second half of the 17th century, at the time of King Louis XVI. The name jacket is definitely a derivative of Jaquette (Gammon then became jacket), a term which meant a short dress with sleeves and pockets. You can also read vintage womens military jacket.
He was later named Jaque (jacket), maybe a jocular derivative of the name Jacques (James) which was in some way connected; Once again we find the France, the source of a name in the field of clothing.
The evolution of the basic elements occurred in Britain in the eighteenth century. In the 19th century have stabilized then the characteristics related to the current jackets, as well as the rest of the components of today’s menswear: pants, shirt, tie, vest. In these last two hundred years, so, the evolution of the jacket and other garments, took place along lines that followed the same pattern as the background.
Certainly the suit-pants will stay on much longer at the base of a certain “image” masculine as it still is,. For example, not only the classic textured grey which is now widely used as much by a freelancer, by the manager, the employee that the salesman, but also broken decidedly sportier or informal anyway, make it easy to predict that the suit-pants will stay still for a long time the chief basis of these categories of professionals.
This belief stems from the fact that we have already seen the “tenacious” resistance of jacket-pants suit, opposite to wars, to fashion, to the revolutions; It seems to have become a cornerstone of Western men, both from a cultural and psychological, although with slight revisions of basic shapes.
SILHOUETTE: FUNDAMENTAL POINT IN CHOOSING THE JACKET
Because 80% of the male covers about full body is undoubtedly the primary element that gives shape to the image; It determines the General glance, as well as the “pleasantness” of the figure. Therefore, his silhouette (or profile) is crucial. Although with differences born of sartorial traditions, the cut and shape of the dress remain the cornerstones of a good picture. The first element to consider in choosing the dress is his profile.
Even in this trick is worth the Board of keep on the classic, because fashions change quickly the classic models while showy last longer over time, as the classic 3-button jacket of foggia.
Since the 1920s have sartorial schools which, while not creating fixed stereotypes, they nevertheless established trend lines.
THE ITALIAN SCHOOL IN STYLE MEN’S JACKETS
Perhaps not everyone knows that the Italian sartorial tradition is among the oldest in Europe, especially the South, with Naples and Palermo in the head though, two hundred years ago, at the time of Admiral Nelson, underwent an obvious Anglo-Saxon influence. The Neapolitan shoulder is shaped soft. After World War II was squarer, saddle, and gave rise to some Italian style; the shapes were enough members with an underline in life.
The silhouette has changed since the 1980s, taking a “fold” more free and easy. Since the 1970s in our stylists have launched the slits of the jackets, completely absent before, until they become our hallmark. To detect the particular and continuous attention to Italian producers of fabrics in the research and creation of new models.
THE ENGLISH SCHOOL
English sartorial tradition has long been the most imitated in the world. Generally the coat clings loosely to the body, but without excess; the line is accentuated waist, the armhole tends to be snug, moderately padded shoulder. This type of jacket has often slits. Certainly the English school excels in attention to detail, the severity of the cut and the linearity of movements.
THE FRENCH SCHOOL
Traditionally the French school is marked by discretion. In the 1960s, the fashion designer Pierre Cardin gave a particular style of jacket was falling, lengthened and flared at the bottom.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL
There are two ways recognizable to make tailoring in America: the first was adopted nearly a century ago by manufacturers in series and is named jacket to the bag”(sack suit). This line has the slightly sloping shoulder and slightly padded, has three buttons but the lapels are stretched up to reach the central button, then the button highest not fastens, the flaps of the pockets are obvious. The other line of jacket, tied to the 1930s, has the V shape; This model, despite being of European origins has become famous thanks to Hollywood stars who have made heavy use.
MEN’S JACKETS ESSENTIAL TRAITS
First, it is good to keep in mind what are the critical points of the jacket, they are: chest, shoulders, armholes and neck.
Your shoulders should be large enough in order to allow the outside seams down freely, avoiding unsightly bulges caused by the presence of the arm muscles.
The chest should be wide at the point at the right point to enable easy buttoning, and remain comfortable even when seated. If the jacket has three buttons must be connected to the central button, whereas if you use two button is the upper one; the low button should be connected ever.
Another detail to keep in mind is thedrop, i.e. the ratio of the width of the chest and that of life; adequate reports are for example, considering the size of fifty: drop 8 for those with a narrow waist in relation to chest, 6 for a normal relationship, and 4 for those who have a life or a protruding belly. Unfortunately for commercial reasons, the most common is to drop the average 6.
The armhole is another extremely delicate; it must be cut so that her bottom fits comfortably under the armpit, without being tight; When it is too deep, it is certainly a defect. After you have tried a jacket packed you should forgo the purchase if you have any questions about the functionality of the armhole.
The first detail to note about the neck of the jacket is that it must fit tightly in the back, the neck of the shirt and remain tight even when moving or raising the arms. Another detail: when collar is too short causes a rise in front of the jacket flaps, in contrast, a neck too long squilibrerà the flaps of his jacket on.
LENGTH OF THE JACKET AND SLEEVES
The first criterion regarding length, is that it should completely cover the curve of her buttocks. The second criterion says that the lower bound of the jacket is parallel to the middle of the thumb when the arm is stretched. There is a third, more general criterion, which States that the length of the jacket of a person of average height is 78 cm.
Another detail of the jacket of relevance is the length of the sleeves, the classic rule established by the shirt sleeve cuff flows out of both a cm plentiful, of course always outstretched arm. The same measure also applies to the shirt collar than the neck of the jacket.
These simple steps have not only an aesthetic but also functional.
ANCILLARY FEATURES MEN’S JACKETS
- Lapel collar
It seems that the fashions that take place over time, elusive for some reason, want some clothes elements vary constantly: revers fall into this category;so we see them call themselves sometimes wide, other close. It is therefore clear that, in order not to fall in the “unfashionable” it is good to keep on balanced measures. In the jackets to a chest the measures suggested range from 8.5 to 5 cm at its widest point. To add a harmonic element in the collection of your clothing can help match the width of the lapels than the tie.
- Pockets and flaps
Formal clothing (white tie, morning dress, Tuxedo) do not have flaps, semiformal dresses are provided and those athletes. However, where there are flaps is well proportionate to the size of the pocket. Typically, the pockets are located on each side at the top of the coat and serving for documents and wallet while, when there is a pocket in the lower left is for the pack of cigarettes. Some blazers have outside of a double pocket, the smallest at the top the Anglo-Saxons call ticket pocket (pocket for your bus ticket) or change pocket (pocket for coins).
- Rear vents
The lateral slits are two jackets, a central one or none, depending on the model. Of course the presence or absence of splits affect functionality and aesthetics; for example, a jacket with no vents is aesthetically beautiful, but very functional. The jacket with side vents is much more functional, also emphasises the leg and gives more shape to the suit; While that with one central vent, although convenient, is ugly when you put your hands in your pockets.
- Pocket square
The upper left breast pocket of the jacket is for the handkerchief, usually of silk or linen, is therefore a stylistic error where typing glasses or pens. There are many people who consider useless the handkerchief and to brighten their shape using ties or showy shirts, but this way it is easy to fall into excesses of bad taste; the secret to give brightness to your appearance resides right in the pocket. The wise combination of the colour of the tie with handkerchief adds new light to your picture.
- Buttonholes, buttons and lining
While at one time, in military clothing, buttons had their utility, today in clothing from town are ornamental purposes; They vary in number: one or two for Americans, three Italians, four for the English. In tailored jackets buttons are still fitted with buttonholes, particularly this denoting refinement, but it can be noticed only if you unbutton the top button which leads to a drop in style.
- Other details
There are other details that define the good workmanship of a jacket: the crossed wires of the seam next to the buttons, the quality of the buttons themselves (the best are natural substances: like horn or shell), the slot on the lapels of the jacket (which must be open and not pretend).
Very important is the quality of the lining: the best is of natural silk.
MEASURES TO BE KNOW IN CHOOSING
For technical reasons the masculine tailoring divides humanity into five types: normal, hunched forward, bent backward, with protruding stomach and belly very distended.
The size must always be half the width of the thorax, including the arms close to the body. Other important points that the tailor always considers are: the width of the shoulders and waist, and the width and length of your arms, the stature. The drop has already been mentioned above. A good shop semi tailored, among its salesmen have one clerk to verify customer’s measurements, in order to make any changes.
TYPES OF POPULAR JACKET
- Single breasted one button (only smoking)
- Two button single breasted (fastens only top button)
- Three button single breasted (fastens only top button, or the two above)
- Four button double breasted, 2 + 2 (fastens only the lower one)
- Double breasted six buttons, 3 + 3 (fastens the middle button, the short one or both)
- Casual jackets (usually three or four buttons, have slits and patch pockets)
- Sub-Saharan Africa (with four bellow pockets and a belted waist)
- Chamber jacket; the classic one is velvet with satin lapels (can be equipped with buttons or closed with a belt).
MISTAKES TO AVOID IN CHOOSING AND USING JACKET
- Fasten all three buttons single breasted jacket
- scompagnare a complete (except corduroy)
- Fantasy jacket or with designs that don’t match
- Large herringbone jacket
- Jacket with the tips of the lapels too low
- Jacket with plaid or floral lining
- Polyester jacket
- Jacket with shoulder pads
- Plum-colored jacket, lobster or light green
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